Olive ridley turtles are symbolic of the oneness of Planet Earth. Best known for their ‘arribadas’ (mass nesting), the reptiles are pelagic creatures that swim the tropical regions of the Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian Oceans. Their most frequented nesting sites include the east coast of the Pacific Ocean along the Central American coast and the east coast of India, where these images were taken by Dr. Sandeep Das.
As I walked towards the beach, the air was thick with the strong smell of eggs. Amid the deafening roar of the waves, I could hear a deep, rhythmic thud – like the footsteps of an elephant nearby. Though I had heard stories and read several articles, I was still awestruck when I witnessed it for the first time. I stood motionless for nearly 15 minutes, completely captivated by the spectacle unfolding before me: The Arribada. The word itself, Spanish for arrival, rolls off the tongue with a gentle swell, echoing the weight and magnitude of this incredible natural phenomenon. It took me a while to regain my senses. I had traveled nearly 2,000 km. from Thrissur in Kerala to Rushikulya in Odisha. After all the years of waiting, I was finally witnessing the largest arribada in recent history – an experience that took my breath away.
Thousands of olive ridley turtles Lepidochelys olivacea were waddling out of the water, while an equal number were heading back into the sea after laying their eggs. This mass nesting is a survival strategy. By congregating in the hundreds of thousands and laying millions of eggs, these sea turtles overwhelm predators; such as the Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus hovering above them for an easy meal, ensuring that a good number of eggs hatch and make it to the ocean.
The entire area was teeming with the shelled reptiles, and it reminded me strangely of the massive firefly congregation I had witnessed in the Anamalais of the Western Ghats in 2022. That had been nature’s greatest spectacle for me – until this moment.
After laying 100-110 eggs, each female turtle made her way back to the sea. Some were caught by the waves and flipped over, though most managed to free themselves. Those that couldn’t were rescued by the Forest Department, researchers, local fishermen, and volunteers. The Odisha Forest Department is doing an incredible job by fencing off the entire area, patrolling 24/7, and protecting the nests.
Even so, I did see a few dogs sneaking past their watch. However, the only two dogs I encountered weren’t digging up new nests; they were simply scavenging on broken eggs left behind by other turtles.
The entire beach was decorated with beautiful, winding patterns left behind by the crawling turtles, a testament to the incredible spectacle of life. The arribada itself remains a mystery, with theories proposing that the phenomenon is triggered by lunar cycles, pheromones released by the females, or offshore winds.
Not all females participate in the arribada; some prefer to venture to the beach alone. Some even mix it up, nesting solitarily as well as during the arribada, in a single season. Once the eggs are laid, they use their flippers and carapace to beat down the sand.
There were turtles jostling for space, while others were busy laying eggs in nests that others had dug out. Olive ridley turtles have been categorised as a vulnerable species, with nesting sites limited to only a few locations. Any disturbances to these beaches would have cascading repercussions on the entire population.
On a warming planet, however, these turtles face unprecedented challenges. As global temperatures rise, so do the temperatures of the sandy beaches where they nest, significantly impacting their survival. Warmer sands lead to an imbalance in sex ratios, with hotter temperatures producing more females. Additionally, rising seas and increasing storms are eroding beaches, further threatening their nesting sites.
It was heartening to see local fishermen actively involved in the conservation effort, even assisting researchers track tagged turtles. Active protection is required at these nesting sites to safeguard them from feral dogs and other threats.
As I watched the turtles return to the open ocean, a sense of uneasiness washed over me. In about 45 days, the beach would be teeming with new life. The newly-hatched turtles, orienting themselves using the brightness of the horizon, would scamper toward the sea to continue the centuries-old cycle of life. But in a rapidly changing ocean, can their generational wisdom help them navigate these increasingly treacherous waters? It’s interesting to note that last year, there was no arribada at Rushikulya, yet this year, the turtles have returned. Whether they will come back next year, however, remains uncertain.
